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Bunny Care Guide
Diet
Hay: Hay should be the cornerstone of your bunny's diet, making up about 80% of their daily intake. Provide unlimited access to fresh, high-quality timothy hay, oat hay, and orchard hay, as these are essential for proper digestion and dental health. Avoid hays that contain alfalfa and corn, as it is equivalent to feeding your bunny junk food.
Pellets: Offer a small amount of high-fiber rabbit pellets, making up part of the remaining 20% of your bunny's diet. Choose pellets specifically formulated for rabbits and avoid those with added seeds, nuts, or dried fruit, often labeled as "variety," "gourmet," or "foraging." Once your bunny reaches adulthood, they may ideally be weaned off pellets entirely.
Fresh Water: Ensure your bunny has constant access to clean, fresh water. Change the water daily to keep it fresh and appealing. Adequate water intake is crucial to prevent bladder stones, with a normal consumption of about 30 mL (1 oz) every few hours. Be attentive to any signs of excessive drinking or increased appetite, which could indicate a health issue. For more information, see the "Keeping a Healthy Bunny" section.
Treats: Offer fruits and vegetables in moderation. Fruits like apples and berries should be given as occasional treats due to their high sugar content. Excessive fruit and vegetable intake can reduce water consumption, as your bunny may get hydration from these foods. Consider Oxbow treats or apple and pear sticks, which can help maintain dental health.
Avoid Toxic Foods: Some foods are harmful to rabbits and should be avoided entirely. These include chocolate, caffeine, avocado, yogurt drops, bread, onions, garlic, cauliflower, potatoes, raisins, parsnips, and the stems of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. Rabbits are herbivores and should not be given any meat products.
Here is a quick list of the basic things you need before bringing a bunny home.
Pellets, Hay, Water/Bowls, Housing/Hideouts, Toys/Treats, Litterbox, Carrier.
Housing
Cage Size: For a suitable cage size, aim for a minimum that is twice the length of your bunny when fully stretched out. Another guideline is to provide 1 square foot of space per pound of rabbit. Ideally, for a bunny weighing 5 pounds or less, the cage should be at least 4 feet by 2 feet.
Hutches: Outdoor hutches can help reduce odors, as rabbits generally don’t smell unless their cages are not cleaned regularly. Urine can create a strong odor if left unattended. Outdoor spaces often provide more room than indoor setups and allow for easier management of rabbit droppings, which can be valuable as garden fertilizer. With wooden hutches, waste falls through, keeping the bedding cleaner. However, be cautious with wire-bottomed hutches, as large gaps can potentially injure your bunny.
Rabbits are sensitive to temperature extremes. They cannot tolerate temperatures above 75°F, especially in direct sunlight, where heat stroke is a risk. Similarly, they are not comfortable in temperatures below 50°F if not provided proper hides. Ensure they have adequate shade and heating/cooling options, or consider moving them indoors if necessary.
Playpens: Indoor playpens are excellent for giving your bunny more space to explore and for bonding time. Make sure the area is bunny-proofed to prevent accidents, such as chewing on electrical cords. Indoor playpens offer a safer, controlled environment, protecting your bunny from outdoor predators.
Socialization: Keep in mind that not all bunnies are naturally sociable with other rabbits. Many bunnies bond more readily with humans than with other bunnies. Consider this when introducing a new rabbit or when planning to pair your bunny with another.
Taking Your New Bunny Home
When you first bring a baby bunny home, give them some time to explore their new space without feeling threatened. Let them get used to their surroundings and start building trust. Set up a designated area (a playpen or small room) where they can feel secure and avoid being overwhelmed.
Don’t try to pick up or hold a baby bunny immediately. Bunnies are prey animals, and being grabbed can cause them stress. Let them come to you on their own terms. If the bunny doesn't want to be held, don't force it. Instead, offer gentle petting and let them explore you. Allow your baby bunny time to explore their new home at their own pace. Baby bunnies want to explore and be independent, don't worry if they are not cuddly at first.
Keep your bunny's area calm and quiet, away from loud noises or sudden movements. They are very sensitive to stress. Provide soft bedding like hay or paper-based bedding to help them feel cozy and safe
Gradually introduce yourself to the bunny through soft talk, slow movements, and treats. Let them come to you. Use treats and gentle praise when they interact with you to create positive associations. Provide little hideouts like cardboard boxes or tunnels so the bunny can retreat if they feel scared or overwhelmed.
When you do need to pick them up, support their back and hind legs carefully. Never lift by the ears or scruff. Bunnies will freak out if their feet are dangling and not supported. Always cup their bottoms.
Introducing New Bunny to your Current Bunny
1. Separate Spaces
Set up separate living areas for both bunnies with food, water, and litter boxes.
2. Scent Familiarization
Rabbits rely heavily on scent, so it’s important to introduce their scents to each other before physical contact. Swap bedding or gently pet both bunnies, rubbing your hands on one and then the other, to mix their scents.
3. Neutral Territory
Choose a neutral space for the first introduction (one neither bunny has claimed) like in your bathroom.
4. Initial Introduction (Barrier)
Let them see each other through a barrier (e.g., baby gate) for several hours to observe their behavior. Watch for signs of aggression, such as growling, lunging, or thumping, and separate them if needed.
5. Supervised Play Sessions
Once comfortable, allow face-to-face interactions in neutral territory while closely supervising. Keep sessions short and positive. You can try distracting them with treats or toys to keep the atmosphere positive.
6. Gradual Time Together
Gradually increase the length of time spent together as they become more comfortable. If there’s no aggressive behavior, they may start to groom each other, which is a good sign of bonding.
7. Signs of Stress
During the process, both bunnies might display stress signs (thumping, hiding, or aggression). Take it slow and be prepared to step back a few steps if needed. Remember, every bunny is different, and some may take more time to adjust than others.
8. Living Together
Once they get along, let them live together, but continue to supervise for a while. Even once they are living together, continue to monitor their behavior for signs of stress, and make sure they each have enough space and resources (e.g., food, water, litter boxes) to reduce competition.
Bonding takes time, so be patient and avoid rushing the process. Spaying or neutering both bunnies can help prevent aggression.
Training Bunnies to Use a Litter Box: A Step-by-Step Guide
1. Set Up the Litter Box Right Away
As soon as you bring your bunny home, provide a litter box for them. Bunnies can easily be trained to use it, but having one available from the start is important.
2. Spay or Neuter Your Bunny
Keep in mind that your bunny might not use their litter box regularly until they are spayed or neutered (around 4–6 months of age). This procedure often helps with litter box habits.
3. Encourage Potty Behavior with Hay
Bunnies have a unique habit of eating and going to the bathroom at the same time! To encourage good litter box behavior, place hay in the litter box or move the hay rack close enough for your bunny to reach it from the box. Be sure to replace the hay daily to prevent your bunny from peeing on too much of it. All of our bunnies are used to urinating and defecating on Timothy Hay so placing hay in the litter box will help with training. Avoid keeping blankets or washable mats near the litterbox corner. This may encourage your bunny to pee/poop on blankets.
4. Multiple Boxes for Large Enclosures
If your bunny’s living space has multiple levels or is particularly large, you may need more than one litter box. If you are moving your bunny from one playpen to another, be sure the new area has a litterbox in case they need to use it. Bunnies are more likely to use the box if they can access hay while inside it, making it more inviting.
5. Avoid Sharing Litter Boxes with Cats
Never allow your bunny to share a litter box with a cat. Not only is cat litter toxic to bunnies, but both animals also prefer their own separate spaces. It’s best to use paper pellets or bunny-specific pellets in the litter box, though just hay is perfectly fine as well.
6. Positive Reinforcement Works Wonders
When your bunny uses the litter box, offer a treat or verbal praise. Positive reinforcement, like with dogs and cats, helps encourage the behavior you want.
7. Move the Litter Box if Needed
If your bunny starts using a different corner of their enclosure to potty, simply move the litter box to that spot. Bunnies may sometimes lay in their litter box and munch on hay, which is perfectly normal.
8. Dealing with Stray Fecal Balls
It’s common for a few stray fecal balls to appear outside the litter box. Don't worry—bunny feces are dry and easy to clean up with a paper towel. You can place the stray feces back into the box to show your bunny where their poop should go. Remember, stray feces are a territorial instinct and can happen with even the best-trained bunnies.
9. Preventing Litter Scatter
If your bunny kicks a lot of litter out of the box, consider using a high-sided litter box, a covered box, or a urine guard for the enclosure. Just make sure the entrance is still low enough for your bunny to easily hop in and out.
Spaying and Neutering
Spaying and neutering is always recommended for pet bunnies. These procedures offer several important health, behavioral, and social benefits.
- Spaying and neutering prevent reproductive cancers, uterine infections (pyometra), ovarian cysts, and prostate problems. It reduces aggression, hormonal behavior, and urine marking. and prevents unwanted breeding. Bunnies can get pregnant as young as 12 weeks old. Bunnies are induced ovulators meaning ovulation is triggered by mating. They can breed every 30 days. Bunnies can conceive immediately after giving birth and have a short gestation period of 28-31 days. They can have 5-8 litters per year of up to 8 babies in each litter, often leading to overpopulation. An altered bunny is more likely to be more sociable and less likely to display aggressive, territorial behaviors when meeting other bunnies. Lastly, it improves the longevity of your bunnies' life and well-being.
- Although not a con, it is very important to consider the costs and risks associated with this surgical procedure. Many bunnies do well being unaltered and is ultimately a decision for owners to make.
It is also important to note that bunnies have unique physiological characteristics that make anesthesia and surgery riskier than it is for dogs or cats. Here are some things that make bunny anesthesia tricky.
Bunnies have a faster metabolism than dogs and cats, and their respiratory systems are more delicate. This means they are more sensitive to the effects of anesthesia and can have trouble recovering from it. Anesthesia can depress their breathing and heart rate, so careful monitoring is crucial.
Rabbits are particularly prone to becoming hypothermic (low body temperature) under anesthesia.
Rabbits feel pain very acutely, and under-anesthetizing or insufficient pain management can cause distress during and after the surgery. Ensuring proper pain relief is vital for their recovery.
Rabbits are prey animals, and extreme stress can cause their systems to shut down quickly. Anesthesia in rabbits must be done with extra care to prevent over-stressing their systems.
Rabbits metabolize drugs more quickly than dogs and cats, which means that medications may wear off faster, making it harder to maintain a stable level of anesthesia.
Rabbits have lower blood pressure than cats and dogs, and their circulatory systems are more fragile. This increases the risk of complications during surgery, such as blood loss or inadequate circulation.
Bunnies do not have the necessary reflexes or mechanisms to expel food or liquids through the mouth, so they cannot vomit so the risk of aspiration pneumonia is less likely. Bunnies should NOT be fasted for more than 4 hours.
Exotic vets specialize in small mammals like rabbits, guinea pigs, and ferrets. They are trained to understand the unique anatomy and health needs of these animals, which is very different from the care required for dogs or cats. A vet who specializes in rabbits knows how to administer anesthesia safely, monitor vital signs, and ensure the bunny’s safe recovery. Bunny spay and neuter costs vary but can be estimated to be around $300-$400.
Keeping a Healthy Bunny
Veterinary Care:
- Regular veterinary visits are essential for maintaining your bunny’s health. Ideally, find a vet with experience in exotic animals for the best care.
- Discuss necessary vaccinations with your vet to protect your bunny from serious diseases like myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic disease (VHD), which can be life-threatening.
Grooming:
- Brush your bunny regularly to prevent matting and reduce shedding. Long-haired breeds require more frequent grooming.
- Trim your bunny’s nails regularly to prevent overgrowth and discomfort.
Dental Health:
- Rabbits have hypsodontic teeth, meaning their teeth grow continuously throughout their lives, about 1 cm per month. It is crucial to provide unlimited access to Timothy hay, which helps naturally trim their teeth and prevents dental issues. A diet lacking in hay can lead to problems such as malocclusion (misaligned teeth).
Gastrointestinal Stasis (GI Stasis):
- GI stasis occurs when a bunny’s digestive system slows down, leading to reduced appetite, lethargy, and abnormal droppings. This condition is often caused by a diet high in carbohydrates (like pellets, treats, carrots, and fruit) and low in fiber. Bunnies have the 2nd most acidic stomach acid with Vulture being #1 so when bunnies stop eating, the pH in their digestive tract changes, promoting the growth of gas-producing bacteria, which can lead to painful gas, toxins, organ failure, and even death. Prompt action is crucial if your bunny stops eating for more than 3-4 hours.
- Read "Emergency Products" for more info
E. cuniculi:
- Encephalitozoonosis, caused by the parasite E. cuniculi, can affect the kidneys, eyes, and nervous system of rabbits. Transmission occurs through contact with infected urine, feces, or other bodily fluids. It can also spread via contaminated bedding, food, or water.
- Neurological Symptoms: These include head tilt, uncoordinated movement, and seizures. In severe cases, paralysis or abnormal postures may occur.
- Kidney Issues: Symptoms may include increased thirst, frequent urination, and lethargy due to kidney inflammation.
- Eye Problems: Infections can lead to eye discharge, inflammation, or vision problems, which can sometimes result in blindness.
- Digestive Issues: Although less common, some rabbits may exhibit signs of gastrointestinal upset.
Most rabbits carry E. cuniculi in a dormant state and may show no symptoms until they experience stress or other health issues. Regular monitoring of your bunny’s feces is important; healthy poop should be dry and pellet-shaped which looks like Coco Puffs. Small, rice-like, or soft droppings can indicate health problems and should be addressed promptly.
Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV)
Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV) is a highly contagious and deadly virus that affects rabbits, both wild and domesticated. It attacks the liver, causing severe damage and often leading to sudden death. The virus spreads through contact with infected rabbits, their bodily fluids (like urine, feces, or blood), or contaminated items such as bedding or food. It can also be passed by insects or animals that have come into contact with infected rabbits.
In many cases, rabbits infected with RHDV show no signs until they suddenly die, but when symptoms do appear, they can include fever, loss of appetite, difficulty breathing, and bleeding from the nose or mouth. The disease is usually fatal, with very few rabbits surviving.
There are two strains of RHDV: RHDV1 and the newer RHDV2, which can affect more types of rabbits. While there is no cure, a vaccine is available in some areas to help protect rabbits.
To prevent RHDV, it’s important to maintain good hygiene, quarantine new rabbits, and vaccinate when possible.
Essential Emergency Product to Keep on Hand for Rabbits:
Working in the veterinary field, I’ve found several valuable resources that pet parents can keep on hand to assist their bunnies in a crisis, such as GI stasis, when an ER visit may not be immediately feasible. If your bunny stops eating or producing feces for 12 hours, you should consider this an EMERGENCY and should go to a vet ASAP.
- One such resource is EmerAid, a critical care nutrition product specifically designed to enhance gastrointestinal mobility and provide essential nutrition. EmerAid gives debilitated animals the best chance of recovery by supporting their digestive system. This product is commonly used to help bunnies in GI stasis. Force-feeding 8-10mL 2-3 times a day to a bunny who hasn’t eaten in more than 4 hours can significantly improve their chances of recovery and reduce the risks of GI stasis. While veterinary care may still be necessary in some cases, EmerAid helps keep your bunny’s stomach full while you decide on the next steps.
You should have at least one of the following products: Emeraid Sustain Herbivore, Emeraid Intensive Care Herbivore, or Oxbow Critical Care Herbivore
- Another recourse to have on hand is baby Simethicone. Simethicone works by lubricating the GI tract so that food and fur can move out and prevent a toxic amount of gas from being produced in the stomach. It can make stool look dark and shiny, but it helps alleviate some of the gas. Bunnies can take 1-2 mL of baby simethicone (20mg/ml suspension) dye and flavor-free, as often as every hour for the first 3 doses, then 1 mL every 3 to 8 hours thereafter until their appetite and stool return to normal.